Ramblings from another corner of the world...

Searching for Zombies in Atlanta

2011-12-11T18:36:00.000-08:00

With all the success of the Walking Dead (which is filmed here in Atlanta), I figured it's high time to go searching for some zombies. With all the abandoned buildings around, I figured I'd start with the ones I see all the time on the otherside of the train tracks.

Impaled pumpkin head on the barbwire fence- definitely a nice touch.

These set of a half dozen or so abandoned buildings are part of the Pullman Railyard.

The earliest building is from 1903 and was originally used to manufacture parts for factories. It was also used as a munitions plant for WWI. In the '20s, it was purchased by the Pullman company and used as a repair station for their train cars for the entire south-eastern US.

There was even one train car left.

It was such an immense set of structures with graffiti everywhere.

In the 50's, the railyard was sold to Georgia Power. In the 90's it was sold again to the Georgia Building Authority and was used to operate the short-lived New Georgia Railroad, a tourist train from downtown Atlanta to Stone Mountain. It's been on sale since 2007- definitely prime property for development. Although it's only been abandoned for two decades, the decay makes it seem much longer.

With trees and vines growing out of walls and pushing through roofs and windows, it makes you wonder how long it would take for the "forest" to reclaim everything. The things we build are probably not as permanent as we think they are.

Sadly, no zombies, but plenty creepy!

Scenes from Around Leh

2010-09-22T22:52:00.000-07:00

The scenes from around the mountain town of Leh had no shortage of things to see and do...

But of course after our little trip, the bikes needed a little TLC first (that and I really needed a rear brake).

First up, was a walk to the stupa forest.

Not sure what the cans exactly do. Snow measurements? Keep them growing straight? Protection from dogs/people/cows peeing? Multi-purpose I'm sure.

Next was a climb up to one of the many gompas (monastery) overlooking town. Although the climb couldn't have been more than a 100 meters or so, it wasn't too easy at elevation.

Looking up-

Looking down-

Next to the gompa-

The scenery at sunset was surreal. Definitely a moment to enjoy and where you know that this is the reason I like to travel.

Leh

2010-08-14T18:08:00.000-07:00

I took this photo of Leh on July 1. A little more than a month later, parts of Leh and its surrounding areas were completely obliterated by flooding and mudslides during a freakish downpour in the middle of the night. 165 are dead with hundreds injured and scores still "missing".
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/165-dead-in-Leh-flash-floods-81-foreigners-rescued/articleshow/6286099.cms

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/Leh-now-battles-food-water-shortage/articleshow/6284908.cms

Looking at some of the photos of places around town that we recently visited and is now destroyed is disturbing. http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/Leh-now-battles-food-water-shortage/articleshow/6284908.cms (warning, some photos are very graphic) They're upsetting not so much that we could have been there while the mudslides happened, but also knowing how kind, friendly, and sweet the people of Leh are.

While natural disasters may be unavoidable, tragedies such as this are not necessarily so. I have to wonder what difference it would have made if Leh and its surrounding regions had better infrastructure (I can speak from firsthand experience about the poor roads and drainage) and had a greater investment in development. Poverty and tragedy from disasters are always intertwined- the current floods in Pakistan and China, the recent earthquake in Haiti are examples as is Hurricane Katrina and New Orleans.

While the Indian army and several large NGOs are responding to the crisis http://www.thaindian.com/newsportal/health1/ngo-seeks-public-help-in-leh-relief-work_100409069.html

http://www.savethechildren.in/component/content/article/49-newsflash/328-a-public-appeal-to-support-relief-efforts-in-leh.html
, their immediate relief, while absolutely critical, are still no substitute for longterm development efforts. Avoiding such future tragedies in Leh (or anywhere else in the world) requires not only a substantial investment in financial, social and human capital but vision as well.

Traversing the Manali-Leh Highway (4)

2010-08-09T00:45:00.000-07:00

Day 5: Sarchu to Upsi

The morning starts off with a typical boring scene along the Manali-Leh highway...

Lachulangla- at 16,600', the 3rd highest motorable pass in the world

Pang is one of the temporary tent "cities" where you can get basic supplies and a bed if need be. We stopped to grab lunch at one of the many tent dhabas along the way.

We actually stopped off at the same dhaba for food on the way back. I recognized one of the dhaba owners from her photo in a book, so we cut out her page and gave it to her.

Her name is Dora and has 2 kids that she sees only once a year. She only makes about $1000 a season. She was so happy to see her page that she gave us some candy when we left, I felt like I 6 years old again, hah!

Morey Plains-

As much as I love the Royal Enfields, I'm not the biggest fan of any part but the engine on this bike. After I heard a clinking sound of metal hitting asphalt, I just knew that it couldn't have been good...

Yep, that's my rear brake. Never thought to bring an extra one of those, doh!

Ordinary if this was New Delhi or any other major city this wouldn't have been too bad, but it's still nearly 200kms from Leh! I still had to go through such Manali-Leh highway sights such as...

Tagalangla- at 17,500', the 2nd highest motorable pass in the world.

Going up without a rear brake wasn't too bad, going down was a different story. Let's just say it took awhile...

Finally, we're starting to see stupas and prayer wheels! After 487kms, several stops for attention-needy PEG, lots of magi (ramen), momos (potstickers), and thukpa (noodle soup) at tent dhabas, and 6 scenic, yet grinding, days, next stop Leh!

Traversing the Manali-Leh Highway (3)

2010-08-01T08:57:00.000-07:00

Day 4: Keylong to Sarchu

The day begin as usual, pack the bags, load the bikes, struggle starting them up cold... PEG must have be a bad influence on Meeraj's bike.
http://flic.kr/p/8nWH5j

The scenery is nothing really to write about.

A few of the switchbacks heading up to the high altitude passes (after the first 20 I lost track...)-

We finally reach Baralachala at 16,500'. The mountain mountains finally begin.

It's as cold as it looks, but we're too distracted by the scenery to really care.

Baralachala is one of the (many) passes that we were a little concerned with before leaving New Delhi. On a Manali-Leh Highway touring Internet forum, stranded bikers posted updates like-

"I was riding with bikers who have done the manali-leh route almost 4-5 times and they could swear on their bikes that this was the scariest experience of all and they have never seen so much water and snow before."

Yep, not too much of a confidence builder, and the posted photos and videos also made Baralachala look umm... a bit "challenging" thanks to a recent avalanche.

Photo/Video a few days before we got there-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oAbqofWsPw&feature=player_embedded

Snow is one thing, but snow+bright sun results in water. Lots of it. Hard to believe it's not a river.

Crossing the Baralachala nallahs with PEG, the 400 pound she-beast of a bike-

I actually made it through the Baralachala nallahs in one piece without falling, but unfortunately I wasn't so lucky at crossings earlier in the day. At one point PEG was underwater for 5 minutes, but surprisingly started right away without any problems. My psycho ex-girlfriend definitely has a split personality. Nothing is quite so tiring as getting thrown off into snow melt/rivers and having to pick your 400 pound bike back up. Ugh! Manali-Leh Highway: 6, Me: 2.
Meeraj's Baralachala crossing video (be sure to watch the last 2 seconds, hah!).

After a long and exhausting day, we finally arrive at Sarchu, tent city.

The mountain scenery is almost like a painting which makes it all worthwhile.

Traversing the Manali-Leh Highway (2)

2010-07-26T01:59:00.000-07:00

Day 2: Khoksar to Keylong

The morning ride though gets off to great start, it's absolutely gorgeous out and the road is well maintained and follows along the Indus river.

Peaks and valleys-

We even reach our first "nallah" crossing. Snow melt is supposed to be one of the more difficult things about riding the Manali-Leh highway. Ordinarily it wouldn't be such an issue this late in the year, but thanks to global warming, it's still snowing on some of the passes. We're pretty excited to test out our gaitors and the waterproofing of our boots though, woo-hoo!

First nallah crossing-

Although her clutch plates have been replaced, my Psycho Ex-Girlfriend (PEG) isn't too happy about it and decides to throw a fit (guess she doesn't like strangers fooling with her innards) and plays this game where she shifts into neutral randomly. Of course this just so happens to coincide exactly at the time when I need power (like crossing a nallah or going over a small bump), and I end up getting wet, bruised, and scratched up when I get thrown off. For those of you keeping score-Manali-Leh Highway: 3, Me: 0.

After the ride to Keylong, nothing's better than Tibetan comfort food.
Steaming thukpa-

And of course PEG goes right back to the local mechanic for a little pep talk and tune up.
Yogi's repairshop-

Spare bike parts-

At times, I could swear the scooters and bikes outside the repairshop take on a human personality.

Almost human-

Scrapyard outside the repairshop-

Keylong is a gorgeous and surprisingly large mountain town. We end up staying for 2 days for repairs and ended up exploring a nearby monastery.

Monastery arches-

Traversing the Manali-Leh Highway

2010-07-21T08:57:00.000-07:00

As if riding around in rural Jaipur for a weekend wasn't challenging enough, we decided to tackle the epic Manali-Leh highway. "Highway" is waaaaay too optimistic of a descriptive term. It's 479 kms of bone-jarring rough Himalayan road with the occasional stretch of asphalt here and there- all at some of the highest elevations in the world (at least for a "motorable" road). That's all part of the fun of India, nothing comes easy. But hey, after our Jaipur trial run, we're (mostly) totally well-prepared.

Introducing the Royal Enfield
Touring the classic Manali-Leh highway deserves a classic bike. Every year, the Royal Enfield group actually sponsors an official tour of the Manali-Leh highway. Somehow though, it's just not too appealing to ride there in a group of 60+ guys, most of them on some sort of midlife crisis, which umm... is not what I am on.

Royal Enfield bikes have been in existence since the 19th century and have been in India since the 1940's. India is the only place that still manufactures them, and to this day, there is still high demand for them. It's easy to see why, they just look, sound, and feel how a motorcycle should be like. Their distinctive thump-thump-thump sound is almost primal, and Royal Enfields should get dirty and be taken off-road.

Although their official name is "Royal Enfield", they probably should be called the Royal-Pain-in-the-Ass instead because they often breakdown (see below). They basically have WWII-era technology in a 400 pound bike. In fact, we decided to name them after our ex-girlfriends 'cause although they might look really good, they're high maintenance, always need attention, and a bit crazy, hah! Over the weeks we rode them we thought up of a lot of other analogies, but umm... since probably some of my exes might be reading this I better not go into detail (but don't worry, it's not you, it's all the other ex-girlfriends, really... hah!).

Day 1: Manali to Keylong (err... make that Khoksar).
Well, Day 1 didn't get off to the greatest of starts. We went 12km in the wrong direction, and of course my "psycho ex-girlfriend" (PEG) immediately is tired of touring and decides to get a flat tire.

On the way up to Rohtang Pass, plenty of vendors renting out brightly colored jumpsuits and fur coats for the snow.

First taste of the mountains!

Fur wearing tourists riding the tiny ponies-

After the first pass of our trip, PEG decides she's done for the day and decides to blow her clutch plates in the town of Khoksar. Meeraj has to play "Lassie" again and rides 3 hours round trip to buy some new ones from the mechanic the next town over to repair PEG with.

Repairs by lightbulb-

Like all the other stops along the Manali-Leh highway, Khoksar is a really photogenic place.

Enjoying her coke-

Crying Babies is a Good Thing

2010-06-23T22:50:00.000-07:00

This past weekend I visited my friend Cait who has been busy setting up a nutrition center for children under 5 as part of the Real Medicine Foundation in rural Jhabua, Madhya Pradesh. The area is predominantly rural and over 80% tribal- the main issue is not so much access to high quality food, it's more of a lack of nutrition education or education in general.

Field staff identify infants suffering from malnutrition in the field and convince them and their Moms to bring them to the center for about 2 weeks for nutrition counseling and the feeding of an enriched diet to their children.

Plenty of babies crashed out all over the place-

Meals are prepared according to the dietary needs of the malnourished kids.

Mom's waiting to feed their babies

Some don't even bother taking a breath

Of course after a few days of being fed and having more energy, kids are much more active than when they first got there. Crying babies is definitely a good thing!

Hams-

10 Things I Now Know After Learning to Ride a Motorcycle in India

2010-04-27T12:32:00.000-07:00

1. Riding for 30 minutes around the neighborhood 3 or 4 times is all the instruction you really need (thanks Imran!). The rest you pick up quickly on the road. Oddly enough I feel more comfortable riding here since it’s impossible to go really fast and there are already so many motorcycles and bikes that drivers are more aware of them.

2. Stalling in the middle of a busy road really sucks with a temperamental kick-starter.

3. A 20km “shortcut” through a village dirt road can take over 2.5 hours. Definitely need to remember the water next time too.

4. Tipping over twice on such above mentioned “shortcut” from sliding out on loose sand can result in you having to make a visit here…

… and leaving you looking like the mummy.

5. I really have to watch out for goats on the road, they like to be directly in my pathway for some strange reason (as do camels, carts, cats, chickens, geese, dogs, pigs, cows, buffalos, people, bicycles, other motorcycles, scooters, flat bed trucks, tractors overstuffed with cotton, cars, buses…).

6. Nimbooz, a lemonade drink, and all its variants is close as it gets to Gatorade in India. Perfect for 100 degree weather!

7. Riding in rush hour traffic isn’t a good idea (but you get to use your horn a lot).

8. Riding in rush hour traffic on a highway really isn’t a good idea.

9. Riding in rush hour traffic on a highway at nighttime after already spending 20+ exhausting hours in a blowdryer-like climate really really isn’t a good idea (no photos of this, was too busy praying).

10. It’s damn fun and is the BEST way to see beautiful parts in this country. Next tour- Himalayas!

Glad to be back-

More Scenes from Orchha Town

2010-04-07T09:48:00.000-07:00

The Orchha town square was definitely multi-purpose. It was used for functions like...

Selling of Wares-

Selling of Flowers-

Weddings-

And fantastic people watching of course.

Painted foot and village toothbrush-

Two eyes peering over the fence-

Playing on the Coke delivery bike-

I'm not too sure what the deal was with this couple. They insisted that I took a photo while she fed her husband(?). Maybe it's like the trainer feeding Shamu at Sea World or something? I wasn't too sure how to ask with my limited Hindi skillz.

And the views from the temples and palaces in Orchha were stunning!
Baba shucking peas-

Cooking instruments-

View of the Town-

Temple "windows" make ideal picnic places. Best view in town with a breeze.

I'm guessing that the "finger paint" was a gift from the holy animal in India...

Scenes From the Betwa River in Orchha

2010-03-09T11:54:00.000-08:00

One of the popular tourist activities is to catch sunset along the Betwa River in Orchha. It was probably one of my favorite places to photograph. Of course you get the requisite postcard shot at sunset with the chhatris reflecting off the water in the background...

But to me, the far more interesting shots were to be had by turning around and photographing people going back and forth across the bridge.

Carrying Firewood from the Forests

Posing with the Tourist(s)

Bus Driving By

A Queue of Feet

There were a number of Sadhus also enjoying the sunset. Some were in deep philosophical conversations...

Others followed tourists around waiting for their photo to be taken (for a small fee naturally).

I figured I'd oblige...

Out of all my photos in Orchha, I think I like these ones the best. Not really too sure why, but the soft glow at sunset and more importantly the warmth and friendliness of the people, give them a nice feel.
Down the Line

Watching Friends

Scenes from Orchha

2010-03-02T09:39:00.000-08:00

Orchha is a tranquil town filled with 16th century temples which attract Hindu pilgrims. Because it's a bit off the beaten path and on the smaller side, it often gets overlooked, which is fine by me because that means a lot less harassment.

The square around the Ram Raja temple was filled with vendors, sadhus, and Hindu pilgrims everywhere.

Painting-

Painted

Selling Dye

Doll and Sadhu

Pilgrims Resting

There was a long queue for food handouts as well...
Food Handouts for the Needy

Shaggy motorcycle saddle covers seemed to be all the rage as well.

Pilgrims at the Ram Raja temple were kissing the back wall, apparently where the Shiva statue would have been placed.

Myself personally, I've learned to generally (especially in this country) not to put my mouth where other hands and mouths have been before, hah! I won't say what this dog was doing to the wall shortly before I took this photo (yes, it's the same one people were kissing)...

And of course this being India, cows just seem to make it a habit to insert themselves in so many photos. They just like the attention apparently.
All Natural Garbage Disposal

Terrorism and Acceptable Risks?

2010-02-21T08:37:00.000-08:00

Usually I keep my blog light and fun because, well, that's what I enjoy taking photos of and telling stories about. Today just feels a bit different...

I lost a friend today in a terrorist bombing in India. Actually, to be technically correct, it was a week ago- I only just found out a few hours ago.
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/pune/Blast-rips-Punes-German-Bakery-9-dead-45-wounded/articleshow/5570692.cms

I met Nadia in Feb/March 2006 the first time I traveled to India. It was just one of those random, chance encounters with fellow travelers that you find yourself in while being abroad. We were both staying in the same guesthouse, and I just happened to start a conversation with her while she was on her way to a yoga class. We bonded by talking about how special of a place India is.

I only knew Nadia for 2 weeks, and I can't call her a close friend. We would exchange the occasional email over the years. But I knew her well enough though to say that she had a magical twinkling in her eyes, a beautiful spirit, and India in her soul as so many of us who travel/live here.

Thanks to fate, she just happened to be at a German Bakery when someone left a bomb in a backpack under a table. But it could have been anyplace else in India- it could have just as easily occurred here in New Delhi at any of the locations that I frequent with my friends, expat and Indians alike.

Shortly before the Pune bombing that killed Nadia, my Inbox had several emails from the American consulate with vague warnings about a possible terrorist attack and with ambiguous advice about to be vigilant of my surroundings. While I appreciate the concern and the warnings, I really wonder if the emails truly change the behavior of those of us who live and travel around India.

To me, the risks were already known a long time ago. Granted, the majority of us foreigners here live a charmed existence. We have the freedom and means to travel, and experience all that riches that India has to offer that most people here do not have. While events like the Pune bombing makes living here in Never-Neverland more "real" to the ugliness in the world, is it really going to change the way I will live my life here or anywhere else? I doubt it.

To me, asking myself how "risky" any given part of India is to a terrorist attack is about on par with asking myself how risky is it to travel across town on a rickety autorickshaw or how risky is it to eat street food or how risky is it make conversation with a stranger (or how risky is it to get locked in a fort at night while taking photos for that matter). I'm not reckless with my life by any means, but risk is absolutely relative- I personally think that living on the Berkeley/Oakland border in the US with all the shootings and drivebys a bit more "risky" to be honest.

While traveling and living abroad has some inherent risks to be sure, the issue truly isn't about what are and what aren't acceptable risks for many of us (and Nadia was one for sure). It is more about what is unacceptable- living afraid and denying yourself the opportunity to experience all that India, and life for that matter, has to offer.

While I'm incredibly sad that Nadia is gone, I also know that she was doing what she loved- exploring, growing, and living her life the way she wanted to. In the end, isn't that important? She will be missed.

Tapping into the magic of India
unexpectedly there I am always new
and coming going , arriving,
departing , resting , whatever rolls
under the feet of now
--- Nadia (from her Facebook page)

Things I like/dislike about New Delhi

2010-02-08T10:00:00.000-08:00

So with the sweet there's the bitter. After living in New Delhi, you experience the extreme duality to India- sometimes at the same time. Kinda like how every rose has it's thorn... just like every night has it's dawn... just like every cowboy sings his sad, sad song... Hah! Alright, no more quoting power ballads from the late 80's.

1a. I like- Indian weddings
How can you not like celebrations where they hire a marching band, the groom comes in on a horse, and everyone is dancing. Not to mention the fantastic food and the beautiful lights!

The groom arrives by horse-

People dancing- http://www.flickr.com/photos/tlo/4337798384/

My apartment when our landlord's granddaughter got married-

1b. I don't like- Lost Indian Wedding Marching Bands
The dirt patch area behind my apt serves as site for weddings. The entrance can be hard to find. During the night, it's nearly impossible. So I can always tell the wedding marching band gets lost because they stop, circle around my house a few times, and then stop again. It's charming the first couple of times. And it sucks at midnite on a weeknight the umpteenth time during wedding season.

2a. I like- Indian signs

So I guess a man can be identified by his wearing shorts and arms akimbo and a female with pigtails and skirt (check out those cankles* by the way!!!)?

*cankle=calf+ankle

"Keep smiling, it only increases your face value."

2b. I don't like- Indian bureaucratic paperwork
I'm not going to say too much about this since I don't want to get kicked out of country. So I'll just post a photo, and those of you who live here more longterm will cringe and know exactly what I'm talking about.

Ok, I lied, I can't resist one smartass comment. As my friend who's leaving the country (and not me) and went to the registration office for 2 weeks straight summed it up best by saying "He (the bureaucratic paper-pusher) probably lives at home with his mum and still wets his bed." I guess it's only fair since I know we put people traveling to the US through even more hassle!

3a. I like- Kids playing on the street
Everywhere you look, kids are running around with their friends, playing cricket, and getting into all sorts of adventures- you know, just being kids. It's the way it used to be in the US which is tragic. Life was good back then.

3b. I don't like- Indian kids selling stuff on the streets
At every stoplight, packs of kids are trying to sell you things ranging from out of date magazines, books, balloons (kinda like these in Mumbai http://lucidtravels.blogspot.com/2006/02/chasing-balloon.html), you name it. Not to mention some are trying to do cartwheels in rush hour traffic.

4a. I like- Indian street food
There really isn't anything better. It tastes so good!

4b. I don't like- Later that night/the next morning
Two words- Delhi Belly. Enough said.

Bright Lights, Big City

2010-01-26T08:44:00.000-08:00

Some infrared shots from my new digital camera.

Washington DC-

New York-

Things I Did While Back in the US

2010-01-20T20:48:00.000-08:00

Yeah... might be time for the Indian "tap water" diet plan and find a gym, hah!

Things that Crack Me Up in India

2010-01-14T15:01:00.000-08:00

Looking through my photos of the last couple of months in India, here are some things that made me laugh.

1. The Village Vampire-

I've been to a lot of rural villages before, but this is the first time I've seen seen someone in a costume. I wonder if he's the equivalent of a clown at a circus? Must be a human thing that cuts across cultures where adults wear makeup and scare little kids.

2. Street Animals-
Always a novelty to see an elephant go strolling down the street with all the regular traffic (much better than the naked guy I saw a few weeks ago).

Dogs caught sleeping on top of fruit-

Feeding time-

3. Coats on Animals

Really? Is it really that cold in New Delhi to put fleece on an animal that already has fur? Someone told me a crazy German lady was running around and doing this. I'm all for doing something for animals, but considering there are plenty of cold people on the streets too...

4. Bar Decor
I almost put a 10Rs note on the stage next to the mannequin on the stripper pole...

5. Street massage specialists-
I'm positive they're certified in swedish, shiatsu and spades. Really.

6. Haircuts in India-
For some reason or another I found out (the hard way) that the quality of my haircut goes down when the cost goes up. Not sure why that is.

So this actually wasn't too funny after I first got it cut (maybe now after it grew out). As my friend put it "Wow! I didn't know a haircut in India can change your ethnicity!!!"

I actually prefer the street barbers, they know how to cut hair. And as an added bonus, you get a scalp massage!

More Random Scenes from Mussoorie

2010-01-09T17:56:00.001-08:00

Although it's been nearly 2 months since I was there, thought I'd share these photos of Mussoorie anyways.

With a backdrop of the Himalayas, it's a tranquil mountain town. It's still very much India though because of all the contradictions- you're just as likely to find things of great beauty...

... as you are of heart-breaking poverty.

Still though, the scenes of everyday life continuously unfolding before you make it a fascinating place to experience.

Reading a newspaper on the stoop-

Milk containers-

Gulab jamon maker (think doughnut holes dripping with syrup)-

Liquor shop (still not sure what English wine is...)-

This sign just cracks me up, although I personally like the seediness quality in the nighttime!

Scenes from Happy Valley

2009-12-09T07:30:00.001-08:00

On the outskirts of Mussoorie is a Tibetan settlement called Happy Valley. On the day I happened to wander through, a high school soccer game was being played on a dirt field which made for some fantastic shots!

With every shot and good play the crowd 'oooh'd and 'aaah'd their approval/disapproval. Even the monks were watching-

At the hilltop above the temple and stupa, thousands of flags flapped in the wind carrying prayers to heaven.

And of course with the entire town at the soccer match, what better place for a young couple (I'm guessing) to meet?

Landour Himalayan Sunset Views

2009-11-25T09:55:00.001-08:00

Landour has some fantastic viewpoints of the Himalayans and some spectacular sunsets. Occasionally you get treated to both which make for some great, cheesy postcard like shots, which of course you HAVE to post them online.

On a clear morning, you can almost see a ghost-like outline of them in the far distance. By sunset, they usually have disappeared like some mirage in the desert.

Almost Ghost-like-

Viewing Platform-

Telescope-

Dukan Assistant Watching Me Take Photos-

Occassionally you catch a really clear day for fantastic views and spectacular sunsets.

Clear Day-

Layers (I'm hoping it's fog and not pollution, I don’t think I was facing towards New Delhi…)-

Someone once told me that the reason why photographs in India are so spectacular are because of the colors. You’ll have to judge that for yourself!

Pre-sunset

At sunset-

Just Evil. Period.

2009-11-13T04:23:00.000-08:00

As if to serve as some obvious warning-

The monkeys that I’ve encountered in India are bad, especially the ones here in Mussorie. Oh sure, they can look all cute and cuddly, but pure evil lurks behind their beady little eyes.

Almost Lady-Like-

It’s a White Hair-

Mom and Baby-

I look innocent, but piss me off and I'll fling my poo...-

I usually don’t mind most of the wildlife in India, but If even Buddhist monks (keep in mind that they revere all things living) are carrying around slingshots to ward monkeys off then you know something can’t be quite right.

No petting the “wild” Indian deer-

Monk and slingshot-

Around town you can here people scream and throw things about as monkeys come in through the doors and windows looking for food. I’ve seen them take candy from kids (and tourists).

Tasting the Houseplants-

For the life of me, I couldn’t figure out why the power would sometimes come and go…

Just imagine these little devil beasts jumping all over you: a Stephen King horror movie waiting to be filmed for sure.

They also knew right where you were sleeping and liked to give 5am wake up calls on the metal roofs.

Beware the monkeys in India!

Mussoorie, Queen of the Hill Stations

2009-11-10T04:44:00.001-08:00

Namaste! Greetings from the mountains in Mussoorie where I’ve been learning Hindi (or to be grammatically correct, “I Hindi learn”, hah!). I’ve been putting in the book time, and bending my tongue in unusual positions to make sounds I didn’t think were humanly possible. At least I’m keeping my Hindi teachers entertained.

Mussoorie is a popular destination for Indian tourists and serves as a cool escape during the hot summer months. The language school is actually even further up the hill in Landour (nicknamed the “Princess of the Hill Stations) which makes it a quiet peaceful place to study. Yep, nothing to do but hit the Hindi books. Nothing to see at all…

Development, Obama-mania, and other Random Leftovers

2009-11-08T22:36:00.001-08:00

(Yep, I’m back in India again, updates coming soon. Here are some random leftovers from E. Africa in the meantime.)

Like all the other tourists, I really enjoyed all the old buildings in Zanzibar. It’s almost like walking around in a living museum where scenes of everyday life are on display. Of course over time, it’s inevitable that the structures would show their age and begin to decay and collapse.

Bamboo scafolding-

Along the waterfront, the Aga Khan foundation restored the waterfront promenade, and everyday workers were cutting the grass and picking leaves out of it by hand. To me, it seemed a bit out of place- it seemed fake among the grandeur of the rest of historical Stone Town. It almost felt too sterile to be “authentic.”

All the locals that I talked with though, were so proud of their new promenade. In the evenings, so many families came out to admire it. And then it dawned on me- it’s probably the first “new” structure that Zanzibar has had in awhile. All the “authentic” buildings couldn’t be easy to live in- I can’t even imagine what centuries old plumbing must be like. So I’m guessing that what is “unauthentic” to some, is development for others…

Old bottles of coke-

As one would expect, President Obama has many fans in Kenya and Zanzibar...

Obama knows his HIV status-

Obama bumper sticker-

Obama supporters-

Presidential tablecloth-

Tastes Like Chicken

2009-10-02T08:30:00.000-07:00

Without a doubt, one of the main reasons why tourists come to Kenya is to go to the game parks and see the amazing wildlife. Riding in the back of a dusty vehicle for 4 days watching things eating and being eaten, just makes me… well… hungry. Yep, I’m definitely a carnivore.

Apparently, I’m not the only one. Across from the Nairobi game park is the world famous restaurant called Carnivore. They’re famous for serving game animal meat rotisserie style, kind of like a Brazilian Churrascaria- basically, an all you can eat bbq. Along with the usual beef, chicken, and pork offerings, there’s exotic meat like crocodile, hartebeast, and zebra. Woo-hoo, finally I can settle the debate once and for all and find out what actually tastes like chicken and what doesn’t.

Grilling meats-

Unfortunately, it turns out that Carnivore didn’t have any game meat that night. The most exotic thing was ostrich. Boo!!!

Good thing there was a second restaurant in Nairobi also serving grilled meats. After a few days of recovery, we headed off to the Safari Restaurant.

Safari Restaurant menu-

So for everyone who hasn’t had camel or crocodile before, here’s my unofficial taste test-

	Beef	Chicken	Fish
Crocodile		X	X	A little bit like fish flavored chicken McNuggets.
Camel	X			Definitely “roast beef” like

The highlight of the evening though, was definitely their entertainment show. Dancers would come out doing amazing routines and acrobatics that would put Cirque Soleil to shame.

Although, I’m not very knowledgeable about dance something tells me this doesn’t quite belong with traditional African dance. I dunno, Broadway maybe?

Definitely an interesting night out in Nairobi!

The Dhows of Nungwi

2009-09-25T06:10:00.000-07:00

Nungwi is on the northern tip of the main Zanzibar island. Although prime real estate of the beach are occupied by enormous 200+ room luxury resorts (filled predominantly by Italian tourists), it's actually a traditional dhow building village. Dhows are traditional Arab sailing vessels.

The beaches of Nungwi were dotted with dhows either being built or repaired.

"Spirit of Africa"-

Some were beautifully painted.

Despite all the tourists, Nungwi is still a conservative Muslim fishing village.

Drying nets-

Boats and nets-

And of course, the euro speedos and bikinis don't exactly go over too well in the conservative villages. Constant reminders are needed I guess, hah!

There's something serene about watching dhows set sail. I can't even imagine all the hours of labor that went into ensuring it's seaworthy.

Fishermen on dhows setting sail at sunset-

Maasai and Dhow-

More Scenes from Stone Town

2009-09-21T10:53:00.000-07:00

More shots from wandering around Stone Town.

Orange seller in the plaza-

Sisters walking in front of a door-

Scooter-

Beautifully carved doors-

There was a lot more graffiti in Stone Town that what I remembered back in 2000. Some of it was a lot more interesting and inspirational though...

No AIDS here-

Island of Peace-

A Romantic Boat Ride? Nope, fishermen getting a ride from the shore to the bigger fishing boats.

And of course, bikes galore...

... and people riding them around.

True words to travel by-

"Be intense take advantage of every opportunity now because it may not present itself again."

Things to Do in Zanzibar When You're an Adult (2)

2009-09-15T10:50:00.000-07:00

Of course there are plenty of tours that one could go on as well like spice tours, dolphin tours (although it's more fun watching everyone jump off boats and climbing back in after the dolphins freak out and swim off).

The endangered and rare (yet friendly) Red Colobus monkeys of Zanzibar in Jozani-Chwaka National Park

Feeding sea turtles that got caught in fishing nets-

Of course there are plenty of other lowkey "tour" options that are just as interesting like-
Having henna done-

Lounge in hammock-

One of my favorite things about Zanzibar are the genuinely friendly locals. Everyone seemed to be willing to extend their hospitality from informal tours to informal Swahili lessons.

I met this high schooler as he was preparing for his biology tests. He was really excited about completing his studies and getting ready for tryouts for the Tanzanian Youth Football team.

Playing a game of bau-

Things to Do in Zanzibar When You're an Adult

2009-09-08T09:00:00.000-07:00

Zanzibar is part of legendary trade routes among east Africa, Arabia, Asia, and Europe. During its heyday from the 12-16th centuries, Zanzibar traded in everything from spices (especially cloves which the "Spice Island" is famous for), to gold, ivory, wood, and slaves. As a result, the island has a rich cultural heritage influenced by Swahili, Arabic, Indian, and Portuguese cultures. Like the spices that used to be traded, Zanzibar is one of the places that "feels" exotic.

Stone Town, the main town in Zanzibar, is actually an UNESCO Heritage site. It's a living site, meaning that it's still in active use- people live and work there, which makes it a mesmerizing place to visit. Some of the fun things to do while you wander around include-

Navigating the narrow alleyways of Stone Town-

Shop for souvenirs-

Drink a Stoneys and eat a cinnamon bun and take in the rooftop view-

Eat at the night market- about 2 dozen vendors grilling and selling skewers of fish and seafood.

Peer around corners-

Peer into courtyards-

Peer downstairs (at the National Museum)-

Peer into open, beautifully carved doors-

Things to Do in Zanzibar When You're a Kid (part 2)

2009-09-03T14:39:00.000-07:00

Of course the cheapest entertainment when you're a kid is swimming in the ocean. Everyday at sunset, large crowds would form to watch kids dive off the waterfront walkways and piers.

Watching along the waterfront-

The kids would get a running start, jump in, climb out, and repeat. Just a fun thing to watch and enjoy.

Some of the dives by the older "kids" might even rival that of Olympians for athletic feats.

But of course, a guard would have to come around and run everyones fun...
Watch out for 'da man-

As soon as he'd turn his back though, 3 or 4 kids would dive in right behind him. When he'd turn around to warn them, another 3 or 4 would sneak in on his other side. Yep, the lack of respect to the authority of mall cops seems to be universal...

Synchronized swimming at sunset-

Things to Do in Zanzibar When You're a Kid

2009-08-27T18:32:00.000-07:00

If you're a kid in Zanzibar, you're living the good life. There's no shortage of fun things to do. You could...

Peer out of your window at tourists taking photographs-

Play street soccer...

... or beach soccer

... or capoeira

Hang out on a scooter-

Cruise the waterfront on bike-

Roll a wheel down a beach-

Deja Vu?

2009-08-25T08:00:00.000-07:00

When it comes to traveling, I've always been apprehensive about revisiting places that I've traveled to in years past. Memory is fluid and ethereal- how can the experiences of today possibly compete with the incredible ones (or at least how I remembered them to be) that took place so many years before? Would the water be as blue, the sunsets as golden, the people as friendly? And the overall feeling of a place be as exotic and romantic as what I imagined and remembered it to be like? Of course the people that I experienced it with would never be the same, but what about the place?

Photos of Zanzibar from 2000:
Public Transportation-

Dolphin Tour-

Zanzibar is one my special places in the world, one where my memories loom so very large that they may be more a product of my imagination than actual events. It's somewhere that I've always dreamed of returning to, and it's close to a decade to the day since I was last there. I'll let the photos say the rest.

Zanzibari Wood-carved Door-

Like a painting-

Mr. Walker, peanut salesman

Sunset on Nongwe Beach-

Slum Upgrading

2009-08-23T23:15:00.000-07:00

According to the United Nations, over 1 billion people live in slums. With the global increase in movement from people from country-side to urban cities following WWII, the number of slum residents is expected to double over the next 2 decades. Some slums approach a million residents such as that of Dharavi in Mumbai, India.

The process of slum upgrading has both practical and ethical development components. On the practical side, there's a question of what a healthy community needs. Things that we take for granted, such as running water, sanitation, roads, and street lighting need to be put in place. All the other things that make a healthy community, such as commercial shops and markets, schools, banks, also need to be considered. Buildings need to be upgraded as they may have been built from whatever material was available and affordable.

Kosovo slum, Nairobi, Kenya-

Often, getting water for washing, cooking, and cleaning is a daily chore. Water access may come from a community tap spliced off a main city line. Slum residents may spend 15 minutes to fill a 20 liter jerrycan and have to pay costs that far exceed which rich neighborhoods have to pay for their water tanks. Water access is just one example of the many injustices slum residents endure daily.

In addition to the practical, there's a human rights issue. What's the use of implementing "upgrades" if the slum residents don't have secure land tenure? Residents may be living on government or private land for decades and without even a moment's notice they could be evicted and their homes demolished. Furthermore, slum upgrading is a process attempting to establish equity. But it may not be equitable for all. If a new road is put in place, where will it go and who will lose their homes? There are no simple solutions...

A-ok

Next Stop: Kenya

2009-08-07T08:40:00.000-07:00

On my way to Kenya for a slum redevelopment project with other students from UC Berkeley. Stories and photos to come...

Scenes from a Rural Nigerian Village

2009-01-18T17:20:00.001-08:00

I recently returned last month from a repeat trip to northern Nigeria. Here are some scenes from a rural Muslim village.

Koranic lessons on a blackboard at night

Baby on back

Bike sellers in Zaria

Two friends

Three friends

Just one

Peering over the fence

Cross Border Rivalry with Pakistan in Attari

2008-11-17T23:22:00.000-08:00

So another major "tourist" attraction in Amritsar is to visit the India/Pakistan border for an elaborate closing ceremony at sunset.

There were definitely some great scenes from the 30 minute journey to there-

Crowded on the back of a scooter

On a bike rickshaw-

Peering out the back

Popcorn-wallahs

And at the border itself, both the India and Pakistan side had stadium seating filled to capacity eagerly anticipating the show to come...
India side-

Pakistan side (on the Pakistan side men and women sat on opposite ends)-

Close up of a guard-

The Attari border was almost like a sporting event. There were national chants and plenty of flag waving galore. It was a source of pride for kids to come out and parade the Indian flag in front of the frenzied crowds.

Flag waving AT the Pakistan side.

And of course, what would a party in India be like without some Bhangra???!!!!

More Scenes from the Golden Temple

2008-11-02T18:49:00.000-08:00

Religious prostrations at one of the entrances to the Golden Temple.

Pilgrims circling around on the Parkarma, the marble walkway surrounding the pool.

Bathing in the holy waters.

Definitely long lines to go inside the main temple, but taking advantage of the "tourist pass" (membership has it's privileges), we got to enter through the exit. The Sikh holy book, the Guru Granth Sahib, is kept inside under watch by priests chanting and singing. No cameras were allowed so no photos unfortunately.

The Golden Temple definitely has a very communal atmosphere as well. Water is made available to thirsty pilgrims, and plenty of people were willing to clean plates.

Without a doubt, a very special place.

The Golden Temple

2008-10-23T02:57:00.000-07:00

The Golden Temple is the holiest site for Sikhism and is one of my favorite places that I've been to in India. I know every tourist and their mother visits the Taj Mahal, but I personally like the Golden Temple much more! For one thing, it's an actual functional holy site that outsiders, both male and female alike, are more than welcome at. If you think about it, it's kinda morbid to go see a mausoleum too. Anyways...

Because it's a holy site, Sikh pilgrims are always visiting. One of the nice things about The Golden Temple is that everyone is fed. Check out the assembly line for washing dishes!

It's also one the cleanest place in India! Actual clean sinks to wash hands! If those two things in themselves don't make this place a "holy" site, I don't what would.

On approach, the Golden Temple is simply... stunning. People are in religious ecstasy.

The Golden Temple was completed in 1604. It's surrounded by a manmade lake called AmritSar (Lake of Holy Water or Immortal Nectar).

I liked how some of the local teenage boys liked to use it for their swimming pool. A guard would show up, chase them out, and the boys would walk to the other side and get back in. Cracked me up, although I couldn't blame them, it was hot!

A Typical Day in New Delhi... (part 3)

2008-09-30T03:10:00.000-07:00

6:30p Back in my neighborhood... avoid the cows at the round about.

Or if you're my roommate from Montana, try to start a cow street stampede to no avail. Indian cows are just chill, they know they can do whatever they want...

6:35p I'm long overdue for a haircut. The "expensive" hair stylist joints have left me looking like an escaped mental patient. After too many of these incidents, I've decided that I will no longer get my haircut at a place where I can also get pedicures and manicures. I figured this time, I'll give the 50 cent streetside barber a try!

6:40p I'm drawing a crowd, it's not everyday a foreigner gets a haircut from the same place as where the rickshaw wallahs do...

6:45p Ah yes, I'm freshly shorn, and it's hands down the best haircut I have had so far in India. But wait, there's more! Every haircut comes with a scalp/back massage for better circulation. What a steal!

6:50p With my spiffy new haircut, I'm all ready to go out on the town tonite. It's still early in the evening though, time to head back home and rest up for a bit, maybe I'll do some reading.

On the recommendation of a friend since procrastination is common among grad students, here's a book I brought along with me...

I'm pretty sure I actually dragged this book to India purely for looks because I didn't even come close to finish reading it. Imagine that, a book on procrastination and time management, and I never got around to finishing it... Honestly, why would anyone who procrastinates ever finish a book about time management? Am I the only one who this doesn't make any logical sense to? Hah!

To be continued...

A Typical Day in New Delhi... (part 2)

2008-09-04T23:50:00.000-07:00

9:35am Opps, a bit late for the meeting that started 5 minutes ago.

10am-1pm Typical work day stuff- drink coffee, check email, check news sites, check facebook, run analysis, drink chai, chat with others about project/dissertation stuff, drink water, make calls, etc...

1:15pm Ah, it's time for my favorite meal of the day! Lunch at the office is family-style, which is fantastic for me. Everyone brings in their home cooked meals in little aluminum pots and shares with everyone else like a mini-buffet. Home-cooked Indian food is without a doubt much better than what you can get in a restaurant. I'm not sure how I avoided gaining 15 pounds this summer. Of course I brought my "home cooked" food to share courtesy of a food vendor downstairs, made it myself, hah!

2p-4p See 10a-1p. I'm very well hydrated by this point.

4pm If it's a Friday, I'm probably scrambling around trying to figure out transportation and tickets for a weekend trip that night. Yep, I like to procrastinate in work AND leisure. I really do like taking the trains around in India, it's just less hassle and fantastic people watching! While trying to book tickets online for the Indian Railways, I found this very helpful website to buying tickets at the train station that one should "Take a print and keep in your Travel Bag" (I just love things like this about India).

Step 1: YOU ARE AT NEW DELHI STATION (PAHAR GANJ SIDE).
Step 2: THIS IS “INTERNATIONAL TOURIST BUREAU” BUILDING.

Boy, I don't know what I'd do without these very helpful steps (I'm not making this up, you can see for yourself here.)! Thank god they made the ticket buying process so "easy" for tourists!

6pm Work is over! Time to head home.

6:05p Doh! It rained. That means more haggling with the autorickshaw drivers (rain means they'll try to charge more since no one wants to walk during the monsoon). Worse yet, the streets are flooded, water "seasoned" by the streets of New Delhi is splashing everywhere (yay for a healthy immune system), and traffic jams galore. A 10 minute commute turns into 30...

To be continued...

A Typical Day in New Delhi...

2008-08-31T12:53:00.000-07:00

Most of my blog posts have either been about rural villages or common tourist destinations in India. Truthfully, the majority of my life in New Delhi has been about the mundane, typical, everyday events. Here's a very common day of my life in India...

6:30am- Indian sunshine is beaming through the windows of my room. It's much too bright, I feel like a vampire. Pillow immediately goes over my head.

7:00am- "Alarm clock" goes off. It's laughing yoga in the park behind our apartment! It feels like I'm waking up to a studio audience in an Indian sitcom. It starts off with rhythmic clapping followed by lots of "ho ho ho's" and "ha ha ha's". Have a listen by clicking here.

7:30am- "Snooze" alarm goes off. "Ding dong, ding dong!!!" Our cleaning lady is ringing the bell downstairs. Despite the gate being open, she's a pretty persistent ringer. Ugh. Myself or my roommate stumble out of bed to let her in. I scare her with my bedhead and my boxer shorts wearing shirtless physique (that early in the morning I can care less what the neighbors think...). I go back to bed while she cleans up around me while I try to sleep. Yeah, yeah, I know it's pretty snooty, but dangit, 7:30am is just painful especially on the weekend! I'm pretty sure she hates me, my washed clothes have been coming back looking like they've been mysteriously tye-died with pink and blue blotches with rust thrown in for style points.

8:00am- No big surprise, can't go back to sleep while someone is sweeping and mopping around my room. I unhappily crawl out of bed to make a rousing breakfast of toast and either banana or mango. Everyday. I now hate toast.

8:30am- My roommates and I scour the the local newspaper for any of the parties we went to the other night and random funny stuff. Gotta love the Indian advertisements for fitness gyms. Stripper poles!

You too can look like a scary escaped Indian convict after working out at the gym!

9:00am- Time to leave the luxurious New Delhi apartment and find a ride to work.

Plenty of fruit/vegetable sellers on our street. Everyone is having their car washed too, which is a novelty to me since I haven't washed my car in the states in ~2 years.

9:05am- Avoid the cow at the round-about.

9:10am- Find a auto-rickshaw wallah.

9:15am- Haggle over $$$ with the auto-rickshaw wallah.
9:16am- Walk away in "disgust" over the inflated "tourist" price.
9:17am- Auto-rickshaw driver acts "offended" and grudgingly gives a counter-offer.
9:20am- Repeat the above several times...
9:30am- Arrive at work slightly frazzled. For those of you who haven't experienced an auto-rickshaw, it's kinda like the Indian version of Mr. Toad's Wild Ride at Disneyland.

To be continued...

More Scenes of the Taj/Agra Fort

2008-08-28T00:43:00.000-07:00

Scenes of the Taj Mahal from different locations in Agra.

Taj from the Sheraton's viewing platform-

Taj from the Agra Fort-

Taj and Tower-

Overshadowed by the Taj Mahal, the Agra Fort is magnificent in itself. Mughal rulers were based here, and at one time, the Agra Fort was the governing body of India. The Agra Fort actually reminded me quite a bit of the Red Fort in New Delhi.

The arches in Agra Fort were amazing-

Sweeper in a doorway-

Workers fixing the red brick road-

Agra Fort tour guide. How can you not trust a tour guide that looks like this?

The Equisite Taj Mahal

2008-08-18T11:39:00.001-07:00

I finally made it to the Taj Mahal, the iconic image of India. While I still think there are more impressive sights to see, it is still a beautiful place. I happened to be there on "free" day, so everyone and their extended family were there which made for some fantastic people watching!

Entrance to the main courtyard-

Crowds galore! Definitely lots of bright colored saris everywhere. The line itself to see the main mausoleum wrapped around.

Hanging out in the doorway-

Down the side-

The Princess Diana bench and platform where she posed as well as Bill Clinton and Jacqueline Kennedy, remains a popular site to pose as well.
Some intentionally-

Others more informally...

Here Comes His Holiness, the Dalai Lama

2008-08-14T04:58:00.000-07:00

On the way back to the main town, we came across these two elderly gents along the road.

One was nearly blind, and neither spoke a word of English. That didn't stop either from expressing their excitement as they kept saying "Dalai Lama! Dalai Lama!" and motioning towards the road. Apparently, the Dalai Lama was on his way back from his recent trip to the US! Good fortune for us.

Everyone came out to greet him. I mean everyone. Toddlers who could barely walk, senior Tibetans who could barely walk either. It was a complete family affair.

His Holiness, the Dalai Lama, is truly revered by the people. They brought out offerings for him.

Yes, this is really his vehicle (dang glare).

And yes, this is really him.

He even turned back, smiled and waved. I like to tell everyone that was towards us, hah! My friend was telling me that even a photo of just his robe is highly prized for good luck. Woo-hoo!

More scenes from Dharamsala

2008-08-12T03:54:00.000-07:00

Prayer wheel and prayers inside the Tsuglagkhang Complex-

All day long these dogs slept piled on each other. I'm guessing it was a full night of hard work barking at rival dogs and peeing on things...

Vrooooooom!!! (yep, that was the actual sound effects!)

Fruit/Vegetable seller at Dal Lake

I really don't know why boating around in plastic animals (like a rubber ducky in a bathtub) is the thing to do with your sweetie. I just don't understand courtship in this country. Although I suppose with 1.3 billion people, something is going right...

Sellers of roasted snacks

Tibetan Children's Village

2008-08-08T04:06:00.000-07:00

To provide for the children who were either orphaned or became separated from their families when fleeing from China, the Tibetan Children's Village was formed in 1960. To this day, it continues to provide for Tibetan children, including recent refugees, and serves as dormitories for many. The side of the auditorium reads in huge letters, "Come to learn, go to serve."

On the blacktop playground-

Prayer stones at the temple-

Teacher with students-

Leaving class-

Street pong- I personally think it should be a new olympic sport...

Near the Tibetan Children's Village
Girl in the process of a 30 minute washing hair session-

Cute dark eyed calf-

An even cuter dark eyed baby-

Still Life in Dharamsala...

2008-08-06T05:41:00.000-07:00

Not quite sure what it is about these images that caught my eye...

Definitely attractive fruit...

Bike repair/wash shop

These colorful umbrellas are everywhere...

I especially like this one image in the rain that my friend Greg Bentley managed to capture...

Free Tibet

2008-08-04T06:35:00.000-07:00

China invaded Tibet in 1949. Over 1.2 million Tibetans have died, and the cultural genocide continues 60 years later. The Dalai Lama fled to India in 1959 along with 80,000 other Tibetans. The Tibet Museum in the main temple complex of Dharamsala has appropriately named its main exhibit "A Long Look Homeward" and uses the above image.

One can argue that the Free Tibet movement reached its peak in the west during the 1990's when Richard Gere brought the issues to light as well as with the Seven Years in Tibet movie. In Dharamsala, it's a common sight to see westerners walking around wearing Free Tibet clothing- it's the commercialization of a revolution.

The Tibetan community has been established in India now for 50 years... that's 2 generations that may only know India and not been to Tibet. So has the Tibetan community in India "forgotten" the cultural genocide in China? Not a chance.

Every single store front has Free Tibet protest posters displayed. Peaceful protests are common, especially with the Olympics being held in China very shortly. Here are a collection of them below, set to a song sung by Dorjee Tsering that I recorded in Dharamsala. I do not know the meaning of the song, but the emotional intensity of his voice speaks for itself... if you listen carefully, you can hear the Tibetan children in the audience respond.
A Primal Song-

The youngest political prisoner, the 8 year old Panchen Lama...

Prayers on a prayer flag...

With the Olympics nearing in China, there is renewed worldwide interest in Tibet. Not all Tibetans agree with the Dalai Lama's call to find a peaceful solution (1,2). I'm not too sure I would agree with the reporter's conclusion at the end of the second article, that China has much to fear from an angry younger Tibetan generation. I think the Dalai Lama's quote is the most telling... "With what are we going to fight them? Are we 6 million Tibetans going to confront the army of 1.2 billion people? How?" Indeed.

Welcome to Dharamsala/McCleod Ganj

2008-07-30T00:35:00.000-07:00

Greetings from McCleod Ganj, home of the Tibetan government in exile as well as the Dalai Lama. McCleod Ganj has plenty of "M" words-

Mischievous monkeys-

Majestic mountains-

And of course... plenty of monks-

Without a doubt, the monks are some of the friendliest, most open holymen I have ever come across. We had a nice conversation and eventually went into town for a hot cup of butter tea (which incidentally, tastes exactly like how it sounds). The monkeys, however, are nowhere near as hospitable. They're actually downright nasty and completely unafraid of people. Which is why the monk carries around a slingshot (if you look closely you can see them quickly fleeing in terror like the tree rats they are, hah!). I guess "compassion" doesn't exactly extend to monkeys.

Prayer wheel in the town stupda- One is supposed to turn the wheels while walking in a clockwise direction for prayers.

And of course, prayer flags streaming everywhere so that the wind can catch the prayers.

More bikes...

2008-07-27T01:20:00.000-07:00

Yeah, I'm obsessed...

Scenes from Rural Bareilly

2008-07-25T01:09:00.000-07:00

More village pics...
One of the major crops grown in this village is spice oil. Farmers would drive huge carts full of it to a processing tank.

Donald Duck-ing it on the cart.

So if you're wondering why it's called Donald Duck-ing, Im sure you'll figure it out soon enough, hah!

Loading the spice plant

The cows kept trying to prematurely take off. Amazing how someone holding a stick keeps them inline...

I have yet to figure out which cow is holy and which one is for working...

Rural Healthcare

2008-07-17T04:37:00.001-07:00

On the topic of inequities, there is an acute shortage of doctors in India. Nearly 75% of the billion plus live in rural areas, but 75% of doctors live in the cities. Rural postings are not attractive for a variety of reasons, partly because of the low pay and lack of "cultural" outlets. To top it off, in rural India, an estimated 67 percent of government doctors are not actually available when they're supposed to be.

So what to do if you're sick? One option is to go to a rural health provider... they actually call themselves "quacks." And yeah, they may or may not know what they're doing.
Man with fever getting an IV drip from a quack.

Another option is to self-medicate at your local village pharmacy. Or you could just spend a lot of money and time traveling back and forth into town. Even though it may be a 12km (7 mile) trip, public transportation can take all day long. Of course, this is assuming you don't have to take care of children or are too old to travel.

One technology that has great promise for reducing this inequity is telemedicine.

In a nutshell, telemedicine enables realtime audio/video consultation with a doctor someplace else like in New Delhi. The system is even capable of transmitting temperature, EKG, heart rate, and ultrasound images! Furthermore, the technology is already widely available in India has existed on a small scale. For my doctoral dissertation, I'll be researching the implementation of several hundred of these telemedicine clinics as a primary care center in villages in Uttar Pradesh, one of the poorest states in India.

Indian Inequities

2008-07-17T04:03:00.000-07:00

Workers scrubbing the pond in front of Humayan's Tomb-

Modern India is a fantastic place to be. The economy is booming, development and the entrepreneurial spirit is everywhere. India also has such a rich, cultural legacy that is one of the best in the world. There is much optimism and large dreams. Despite all of this, huge inequities exist in the country, often side by side. It's not atypical to see modern, high rise apartment complexes surrounded by vast slums.

Or modern stripmalls that feel like you're in the suburbs of the US...

... filled with laborers who make next to nothing a day.

Can modern India reconcile such inequities? How soon before people realize they're being left behind and demand to be included in such progress?

Parked bike with modern magazine covers-

More Scenes from Rural UP

2008-07-12T00:22:00.001-07:00

Cooking fuel and drinking water are 2 daily problems in rural areas. For cooking, rural villages in Uttar Pradesh solved that problem by drying and storing cowpies.
Village cowpie storage-

Interior revealed-

Cow chips stacked-

Outdoor cooker-

Unfortunately, burning cowchips can lead to all sorts of health problems. If the cooker is indoors, it leads to issues of asthma especially among kids. If the cows ate straw with arsenic, it could also lead to people inhaling it when the pies are burnt.

Limping goat- definitely a first for me, never seen a sling on a goat. Must have been a special pet.

An awful lot of work...

... to get a drink of water and go home. Definitely a team effort by toddlers.

Climbing up

Salute!

Scenes from Rural Uttar Pradesh

2008-07-08T05:44:00.000-07:00

My project in India has taken me to the field quite a bit (more on this later). Of course it's a fantastic time to drag along my camera since I'm usually in places that no "tourists" to India would ever go.

Life can vary between hard work and lots of downtime. It's very shanti ("peaceful") in the villages, and as usual, people are incredibly warm and friendly. You can't tell from the photos though since I'm guessing it's a cultural thing not to smile for the camera (or either that they're really annoyed with me...).

Relaxing at the choupal- old men like to gather, talk about current events, and play cards. The young'uns working the fields during the day usually join later in the evening.

Boy and toy

Against the blue wall

Washed rugs

Fat happy baby

Carting the crops into town

The Hard Lives of Indian Dogs

2008-07-03T22:32:00.000-07:00

If life is difficult for the billion or so Indians, you can only imagine what life is like for the street dogs. Even though many have "owners", it's still rough fending for food, territory, and navigating traffic. The other day I even saw a dog get beaten in front of a "prevention of cruelty to animals" collection bin and an upscale pet shop- oh, the all to typical irony of India.

With the summer heat, a lot of time is spent:
Cooling off in the shower-

Indian sewer water + wet dog = "What the hell is that smell???!!!"

Sleeping in the temple-

Sleeping in the gateway-

Under the bed and dreaming-

Scenes from Rishikesh

2008-06-30T02:46:00.000-07:00

In addition to the Beatles Ashram, Rishikesh itself was an interesting place.

Indian lemonade stand-

I always think it's hysterically funny when I see statues of gods locked in a cage as if they're some dangerous wild animal.

Apparently, one of the favorite things to do for Indian tourists is to take photos of all the western tourists. Blonde women could make a killing in India if they charged $.

Bindi seller with a westerner getting "OMed."

Sadhus have to be the original hippies of the world. This "holyman" actually came into a restaurant asking for a cigarette.

After he got one, he was actually disappointed because he wanted a joint instead. Too funny- he smoked it anyways.

Risikesh Pilgrimage

2008-06-26T10:00:00.000-07:00

India is the land pilgrimages. Just about everyplace is holy and sacred with pilgrims journeying from one site to another. Naturally, I don't want to be left out on all the pilgrim action. I just had to visit one of the "sacred" Indian sites for western tourists, hah!

Rishikesh is home to the sacred Beatles Ashram!

It really wasn't all that easy to find as the sign-post makes it seem, no Indian pilgrims knew of it.

In 1967, the Beatles met Maharishi Mahesh Yogi and went to his ashram to study transcendental meditation for a few months. The majority of the White Album was written in the ashram (with the assistance of pharmaceutical enhancements I'm sure). Unfortunately, rumors spread about Maharishi sexual misbehavior towards those in the ashram, and it was eventually abandoned. It's still standing to this day, and for a few rupees to the guard, it can be explored.

Here is a slideshow of the visit. And yes, I know it's not from the White Album. One of the guys visiting was playing this song on his mp3 player.

No entry for the Indian tourists.

There were many of these colony dome-like things scattered throughout the site. I guess the bottom was for sleeping and the upper part was for meditating?

Inside of the colony dome-

Graffiti left by a Beatles fan.

Balcony-

This was another one of the larger structures. I nicknamed it the "hive."

On the roof were some more meditation domes.

Cat having a look around.

View out from the hive.

The center of the compound had a huge mushroom-like round-about. Hmm... makes you wonder what the lads were using while writing the White Album...

Although the site was incredibly well-preserved, signs of encroaching chaos were everywhere.

It's interesting to read the account and see photos of someone who was actually with the Beatles while they studied at the ashram.
Text here, some photos here.
The author was interviewed about his time spent in the ashram with the Beatles.

Ah yes, after visiting I now feel like an Indian pilgrim, hah!

Rajaji Safari

2008-06-21T01:21:00.000-07:00

About 11km outside of Haridwar is Rajaji National Park. Lucky for me, I ended up on the last tour of the year before everything closes for monsoon season.

This park is special (not just because there aren't any people or traffic- a definite rarity in India!) since you can spot such exotic animals like:

A rare sighting of the sacred Rajaji Park cow-

Definitely a hard one to spot, almost blends in with the trees. I can now cross the exotic "cow" off my Indian safari list.

Deer fraternizing with peacocks-

Rajaji tree-

The park also has tigers, but unfortunately, we didn't spot any among the grass. But we did come across a trio of elephants, a highlight of the afternoon even if they were a distance away.

The park also had "domesticated" elephants at the entrance to give rides to all the tourists. Little did I know getting close to an elephant while it's eating is kinda like grabbing a bowl from a dog... 'Course I had to learn this the hard way, the photos are pretty self-explanatory. I now know that "domesticated" only applies when an animal ISN'T eating.

Chowing down-

Eyeballing me-

The white of an elephant's eyes-

Nighttime in Haridwar

2008-06-19T05:16:00.000-07:00

The city of Haridwar ("Gateway to God") is one of the holiest sites to Hindus in India. After emerging from the mountains, Hardiwar is where the Ganges river meets the plains of India. The water is swift moving and yet Hindu pilgrims in religious ecstasy still bathe in it (albeit holding onto railing) to purify their souls.

The main bathing ghat is Har-ki-Pauri (meaning "footsteps of the Lord"). Here are some scenes from the nighttime.

On the way to the bathing ghat, Haridwar had all sorts of stands selling things to tourists. You could find stalls with everything from religious items for the pooja (Hindu religious ritual), to toys and trinkets, to souvenirs commemorating the experience. Imagine shopping at the Indian version of a religious Disneyland.

It was a fascinating sacred place, but for some reason, I just didn’t feel right taking photos in Haridwar (photographer block?). It might have been because Haridwar was jammed with Hindu tourists, with myself being the only foreigner- definitely an uber tourist-among-the-tourists feeling. Or I could have just been annoyed about my crappy accommodations with a non-AC room on the 4th floor (like sleeping in a sauna) and getting awoken at 3am by ants biting me in my bed (how the hell do you get ants on the 4th floor???). Or it could have been all the rain at the start of the monsoon season and wading around in calf-deep sewer/garbage strewn water. Good times, good times, and I wonder why I get sick in India…

Scenes from the Red Fort

2008-06-15T21:00:00.000-07:00

In the older section of Delhi, stands the magnificent Red Fort. Built in 1639 A.D. by the Mughal emperor Shahjahan, it took nearly 10 years to complete.

There was quite a line to even get in.

Once inside, there were several other standing structures that were ornamentally decorated and fascinating to see.

The Pearl Mosque

I am definitely not the one with the architecture gene in my family, but the arches were pretty spectacular/

Renting from Jabba

2008-06-11T00:25:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the lack of updates. Between getting sick, finding a place to live, and getting sick again, there hasn't been too much time. Finally feeling well enough to sit in air conditioned office and go online, I know, I know- I have it rough.

My first attempt at renting a room in New Delhi wasn't too successful. I was supposed to have a clean place to stay with aircon, satellite tv, and internet, and hot water (useless in New Delhi during summer, but it's the thought that counts). Of course there was some mix-up since "Jabba" (a name given to him by an Indian and not me, but oh so appropriate) the owner had my email address wrong and "accidently" re-booked my room for the next week or so.

Ok, a typical misunderstanding, I could just chill out in a hotel room for a week, which I did. And then he gave my room away again and had the nerve to tell me that I hadn't reconfirmed because he is a businessman! And then he attempted to charge me more then he initially said he would! If I wanted such a load of BS I'd go hang out with the cows on the streets. Now granted, it was a semi-decent place to stay (other than the mice and lack of windows- hence the Jabba-esque dungeon quality), but definitely not worth all that hassle and definitely not worth the price. And he didn't have a Princess Leia in a bikini equivalent (which obviously would have factored into any decisions).

Negotiating with Jabba the Hutt (artistic re-enactment below). I even used the Han Solo "now wait a minute, Jabba, we had a deal" line, hah.

Fortunately a friend pointed me to the Craigslist equivalent of New Delhi and within 1 day, I found a room in a brand new apartment 10 minutes away from work (with windows and a kitchen) that even has a balcony overlooking a park. Never trust "Jabbas" on any continent.

Hello (again) from India

2008-05-28T00:36:00.000-07:00

Ah yes, it's almost like I never left. The musical sounds of autorickshaws honking still fills the air.

Photos to come shortly...

Scenes from Blue Creek

2008-05-15T09:41:00.000-07:00

Some scenes from around Blue Creek.

In a barrel

Posing in front of the village cornmill

Walking a bike

Roaring down the path

Beware of Falling Iguanas

2008-05-09T13:10:00.001-07:00

Meet my village host/guide in Blue Creek, Fidel.

While in Blue Creek, Fidel took me up the river to go iguana spotting. Apparently when iguanas get startled, they dive-bomb from the trees above into the river. Nothing like having a 6 foot lizard that weighs ~25 lbs. give or take coming straight for your head. It actually sounds like a village practical joke- wait for someone to come walking by, shake a tree a little bit and they'll be sporting an iguana hat, hah!

So Fidel actually brought along a snorkling mask to spot the iguanas in the water. I don't think I've seen someone move so silently in the water and be able to hold their breath as long as he was able to.

Unbelievably enough, he found AND caught one under water. Definitely a sign of a good guide.

Even harder to believe, iguanas are vegetarians! With talons like these, are you kidding me?

Playing dead after being released.

So next time you're in iguana-country and you hear a crashing sound, don't be startled.

Welcome to Blue Creek

2008-05-05T10:49:00.000-07:00

Welcome to Blue Creek, population 232.

While in southern Belize, I ended up staying in some rural Mayan communities through the guesthouse program by the Toledo Ecotourism Association (more about it later). My first stop was the beautiful village of Blue Creek.

Yes, there actually was a gorgeous blue creek running through town. It made for an ideal swimming spot with the hot weather.

Swim (black and white)

The water from the creek came from the Hokeb Ha Cave.

The natural beauty in the southern Belizan rainforest was gorgeous...
Tree buttress

Palms

Even though the town was called Blue Creek, it could also have been called Blue Sky. For some reason, the sky looked quite large.

State of Arrested Decay

2008-04-28T11:15:00.000-07:00

Punta Gorda is one of those places that seem to be in a state of "arrested decay," kinda like Bodie, the California ghost town. It definitely gives the place a lot of character. Things are worn but definitely comfortable like an old pair of slippers.

Scenes from Punta Gorda

2008-04-21T10:24:00.000-07:00

Punta Gorda is in southern Belize, a short boat ride from the border with Honduras. It lacks a beach, but it was at one point an RnR for British soldiers. It's a sleepy seaport and fishing village where one tends to, well... sleep.

It was also a place where it was more fun to take photos of the "stuff" around town.
Fishing boats with holes

Casually strolling along the airport strip

Hanging plants

This house cracked me up, have to wonder if stone ducks are the equivalent of garden gnomes or water gutter gargoyles for Punta Gorda. Someone has an obsession...

Mayan Ruins in Black and White

2008-04-16T11:10:00.000-07:00

Some are digital infrared, others are converted black and white. Enjoy!

Not all structures were excavated. If a structure from the same time period was already represented and restored, archaeologists left them covered by mounds of earth and roots.
Buried temple-

The Lost World-

This photo wasn't shot at Tikal, but at Cahal Pech, also a Mayan ruin site but in Belize.

Trip to Tikal

2008-04-15T00:12:00.000-07:00

While in the western town of San Ignacio, Belize, it's an easy daytrip to the ruins of Tikal in Guatemala. Tikal was the political and cultural center at the height of the Mayan empire from 200-900 AD, and it's name means "knot of hair," which explains all the hair knots in many of the engravings. Those archaeologists sure are good at this interpretation thing, hah! Tikal was abandoned sometime in the 10th century.

Some of the trees at the entrance to the complex were enormous and amazing.

This tree was not growing red/greenish leaves. It's actually covered by epiphytes, parasitic plants in the rainforest.

It's simply amazing to see the structures and temples emerge from the rainforest canopy.

And when you walk closer, you start to realize how deceptively enormous the structures really are.

Imagine climbing an 10 story ladder...

After visting Tikal, Angkor Wat, and a few other ruins in the world, I've started to realize a lot of similarities in form and function. Makes you kinda wonder how exactly could separate civilizations create structures so alike. Not surprising, some believe that aliens built them or taught humans how to. Personally, I believe we're more alike than we like to think.

Let's Go Diving

2008-04-07T00:28:00.000-07:00

Scenes from diving the Turneffe Atoll in Belize. On this particular day we did a wall dive, where the coral is all along the side of a sudden drop off. Simply spectacular!

Scenes from Caye Caulker

2008-04-03T00:35:00.000-07:00

A major tourist haunt in Belize are the Cayes. Caye Caulker in particular is only a short 45 minute water taxi ride away. The nearby reef had plenty of spectacular diving, but the island itself...

Plenty of pelicans

Boats and docks

And as usual, bikes

And oddly enough, plenty of pimped out golf carts to cruise the main strip back and forth in style.

My 66 hour journey to Belize, a pictorial narrative

2008-03-24T14:00:00.001-07:00

Bad weather, not a discount ticket...

San Francisco to Lubbick, Texas

Lubbick to Dallas

Dallas to Houston

Houston to Miami

BELIZE!

More photos of Amsterdam

2008-03-10T13:03:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the lack of updates, school is keeping me busy! More photos to come shortly...

Hoge Veluwe National Park-
Without a doubt, one of the most well maintained parks that I have ever been to. Somehow I doubt they would allow hiking and camping in the "backcountry". In fact, there were bikes available for anyone to use and trails throughout. And yes, the flowers were this color.

Street mural in Amsterdam.

Bike parking in Amsterdam. It gets crowded at times, especially during rush hour.

Flickr Randomness

2007-12-03T15:59:00.000-08:00

So today I got a comment from another Flickr user on one of my photos posted online.

It was taken on my Sikkim backpacking adventure in India, about 30 miles in the Himalayas. Someone from the French speaking area of Switzerland sent me this photo from 1890 apparently...

Wow...

Amsterdam, the city of bikes!

2007-09-28T13:38:00.000-07:00

So other than legalized prostitution and marijuana use (and clogs and windmills), Amsterdam is also known for its bikes. Ah yes, guess what I ended up taking a LOT of photos of?

I think part of the attraction to taking photos of bikes is that in some ways, they seem to be more alive than not. Kind of like they're an extension of urban life in their natural habitat. They're everywhere in Amsterdam, and I couldn't help but be fascinated by where they were left.

Farewell to Nigeria

2007-09-12T23:38:00.000-07:00

Actually, I've been back in the states just under month though... Enjoy the last few photos of Nigeria. On my way back home, I stopped off in Amsterdam for a week. Photos coming soon!

This was actually taken on the grounds of Ahmadu Bello University (ABU). The boundaries of the university literally are "as far as the eye can see."

Think it's about to rain?

Sunset in the compound.

Ah, nostalgia. I miss Nigeria, but then again I like my clean, running tap water, 24 hours of electricity, and football on tv, hah!

Nigerian Hip-hop and Kicking It Old Skool

2007-09-03T12:26:00.001-07:00

So one of the best things about traveling to other countries is enjoying the culture, a fun part of which is listening to the latest tunes. Nigeria without a doubt has some of the best hip-hop sounds in Africa. You can hear the influence of Bollywood, American rap/hip-hop all blended together with Nigerian flavor added in. It wouldn't surprise me to hear some of these artists get airplay in the states in the not too distant future.

Unfortunately, I never had a chance to see any of these acts in person. But there were plenty of stalls everywhere selling CDs. Some were of the bootleg "mix" variety
that had the latest Nigerian/American tunes crammed onto a single disc...

2Face is probably my favorite Nigerian artist. He gets constant airplay at the bars/clubs with good reason, he's fantastic. Another member of a group that 2Face previously belonged to, Faze, is also great.

Then there are some second tier artists. I think I bought these CDs 'cause the photos on front were hysterically funny. I'm not too sure what image these guys are trying to cultivate, but N'Sync and the Backstreet Boys come to mind. Luckily for them, their music sounds slightly better.

CD "shops" tended to be no more than a wooden shack jammed floor to ceiling with CDs. Usually they have huge boom boxes blaring out in front to attract costumers. Put a dozen or so of these shacks in a row and you get a weird mix of Nigerian hip-hop blasting.

In one of these shacks, I asked the seller for some old school Nigerian music, something his parents would listen to. He went digging through his boxes and found some golden oldies, and they turned out to be uber-fantastic. He played some of them on his boombox and actually started to close his eyes, singing along and grooving to the tunes. A crowd heard the "unusual" tunes blaring from the shack and actually gathered to watch the spectacle. It's not every day someone, let alone a foreigner, comes along and asks for the oldies, hah! At any rate, here are some more clips, enjoy Okonkwo, Perricomo, and Sonny Bobo (and is it me, or does Okonkwo- the first guy, look like the Nigerian version of Nat King Cole?). Enjoy!

Scenes from Kano

2007-08-27T23:55:00.001-07:00

Some scenes from Kano, Nigeria.

Caps for sale in Kermi market. Kermi market was this huge sprawling market in the old part of Kano city that had a little bit of everything ranging from pots to leather goods to Islamic bookstores. It was so large, I had to hire a "guide" to lead me around.

Outside the national museum

Outside the Emir of Kano's palace.

Good friends.

Scenes from Shika Dam village

2007-08-20T11:51:00.000-07:00

I spent a couple of nights in Shika Dam village. It's actually one of the study sites, but to be honest, everyone was so curious about me that I was the one being studied. As always, people were warm and friendly and incredibly kind. It seems to always be the case that the people with the least are the most generous...

As always, kids love to pose for the camera, and I'm more than happy to oblige. They were checking for their reflections in the lenses.

When one starts posing, so do the others...

And as one would expect, you have to figure out ways to entertain yourself in the villages.
Canoe ride around the water

Listening to tunes on the radio seems to cut across cultural barriers at a young age.

Before I left for Nigeria, I happened to stumble across a book of folk tales from northern Nigeria. I figured in the story time for the village kids would be fantastic. Unfortunately, I don't speak Hausa, and the guy I roped into interpreting for me didn't know the translation for hippo. Oh well. They liked the pictures in the book though, it's not every day that you get to see photos and stories of your culture in the rural villages.

The old tire rolling game is always fun.

And yes, that's box of cornflakes cut to be a hat. Simple joys.

Market Days 3

2007-08-16T17:26:00.000-07:00

The people watching at the market is always fantastic!
Market boy

Man sleeping

These boys are from right outside the gates.

Perfumes, potions, and other exotic vials for sale.

Yep, they're what you think they are. Could be the reason why Nigeria is the most populous country in Nigeria.

And in the Christian parts, more Jesus signs.

Inside the Ancient City of Zaria

2007-08-09T06:39:00.000-07:00

The Emir's Palace lies inside the ancient city of Zaria. Thousands of Nigerians still live and work within the walls.

Entrances are beautifully decorated.

Although they definitely don't call it the ancient city because everything is new and modern. It only recently had gotten a paved road.

Girls doing henna.

The obligatory bike shot. I can't help but find these bikes and the settings in which they are parked fascinating.

Lori (my colleague out here in Nigeria) and I actually visited these cloth sellers back in May. I recently went back and they remembered my name and asked how Lori was doing. Since then, several other batures ("white" people or foreigners) have passed them in the marketplace and they all asked them how we were doing. Definitely a village atmosphere in the old city, everyone knows everyone. The cloth sellers were definitely a fascinating bunch to talk with. Well educated and well informed on world affairs. And yes, they care much for Bush either, hah!

Emir of Zaria titling a loyal subject

2007-08-07T00:58:00.000-07:00

While shouters and musicians sing his praises, a loyal subject receives an official title from the Emir of Zaria.

Friday Prayers at the Emir's Palace

2007-08-06T02:25:00.000-07:00

So this past Friday, I went to prayers at the Emir's Palace. Usually the place is wide open with plenty of space.

Front of the palace

However, on Friday, the place is jammed with upwards of 30,000 people all praying. On Friday, all the men from the surrounding villages come to pray and pay their respects to the Emir. It was one of the more remarkable sites that I've seen before. Everyone was dressed in their finest robes and turbans. When the prayers began, it was just a sea of colors bowing and praying in unison. I don't think I've ever witnessed so many people be so silent and respectful before, the only thing that remotely comes close is the unveiling of the HIV/AIDS quilt in its entirety in Washington DC. I wanted to take photos, but it would have been extremely disrespectful.

After the prayers, the Emir of Zaria walks from the mosque to his palace flanked by his loyal subjects, musicians, and guards. It was chaos and fascinating at the same time.

The Emir is the one under the parasol.

My friend recognized one of his friends who works in the Palace's public relations department. He grabbed me, and I was swept inside the palace to witness a titling ceremony. The Emir granted a loyal subject a title for all of his good deeds (aka donating $$$). As a shouter sings his praises, musicians are playing.

Youtube video coming soon...

I even was taken in front of the Emir. I wasn't too sure what to do so I ended up doing what everyone else does, bow (when in Rome...). Good thing I didn't go up and try to shake his hand, there were plenty of big bodyguards willing to give anyone who gets too close a stick/gun massage.

After Friday prayers, the grounds turn into 30,000 strong marketplace where everything from clothing to ice cream to snake oil is being sold.

Apparently ice cream sellers in Nigeria play music also. And yes, kids ran after his cart.

Selling snake oil. Lots of street kids listening to someone hawking traditional medicine.

Beggar

Just a fantastic experience that reminds me that I'm still a visitor in a foreign culture.

"Unusual" Scenes from Nigeria

2007-07-30T08:17:00.000-07:00

Well, they're not really all that unusual, more typical actually. They still make me chuckle a little everytime I see them.

When I first saw these signs, I thought that there must be a lot of pesky house buyers stopping by unexpectedly all the time. Apparently, it's a popular scam (of course) to break into someones house while they're away and sell their house to someone else. Apparently, someone who breaks into a house, poses as the owner, and manages to sell it is not crafty enough to paint over the sign.

They really like to pack in the cargo vans...

Apparently, the TP doubles as another bumper too.

I can't help but laugh everytime I see this poster.

The Naira is sooo dirty. I guess with the "indecent storage" (top left) and no Naira "spraying" (bottom left), using the Naira in a strip club isn't proper use of the currency.

And everywhere you look, people are carrying things on their heads. It's very practical, although I have no idea how their necks support some of the weight!

Typical rush hour along the path.

Nigerian email spam and love letters?

2007-07-23T01:29:00.000-07:00

I was wandering around the bookstore this weekend, and I think I found a book that partially explains Nigerian spam.

Ah yes, how could I not resist? The book was a 4 in 1- love letters, toasts, invitations, and engagement letters! The $1.25 was money well spent, and besides, it’s much cheaper than a movie ticket… err… not that there are any movie theaters nearby.

Through this instruction manual, I’ve now been revealed secrets like-

(1) Love letters must be written in simple and correct English.
(2) It must be reasonable.
(3) It must be very interesting to read [Wait! Boring isn’t the best way to woo a significant other? Useful advice, hmm… Maybe I should pay more attention here.]
(4) It must never contain bad words. [Oh come on, where’s the fun in that? Maybe you save the “bad” words for the sweet talking in person?]
(5) It must be free of implications. [I don’t understand this one, I mean, isn’t that the point of writing a love letter? Aren’t you implying something to begin with?]

And from the section on writing an engagement letter to a girl…
“She must be somebody you know or have met sometime. And she must know you as well. You can not write to an unknown girl asking for marriage.” [Wait, you’re telling me that stalker engagement letters aren’t they way to go?]

“Do not go to a girl whom you know that is being married by another person and ask her to marry you because you are rich. You must look for another girl. If you have the money, there are many beautiful girls to marry.” [Yep, probably true not just in Nigeria.]

So what does all of this love letter advice have to do with Nigerian spam emails? Here’s a sample love letter…

Hmm… you be the judge. Alright, my future-wife-to-be, prepare yourself for some hot love letter (without the "bad" words of course) spam, hah!

Market Days 2

2007-07-18T01:04:00.000-07:00

Stalls everywhere in Nigeria sell my favorite food... souya! Ah yes, the sweet bbq goodness of meat on a stick. Anything that tastes that good charred can't possibly make me sick, hah. Seriously though, souya has been a main staple of my Nigerian diet.

And for you veggie lovers, plenty of fresh produce to go around.

I've eaten so much roasted corn, I think it's coming out of my ears now.

We affectionately call this local store 7-11 right outside our compound. They have every possible thing you could want and they're open late. I wouldn't hold my breath on the slurpees though.

It does, however, sell such authentic Nigerian food items like...

I swear, between Ramen and souya, my diet here in Nigeria has digressed to that of my undergrad years.

Most locals also buy drinking water in little plastic bags. Nigerian bagged water has also jumped on the flavored water bandwagon, although not intentionally. Through osmosis, they come in exciting authentic Nigerian street flavors like peanuts, smoke, and dirt. I'm going to store them next to some mangos and pineapples.

And if street food isn't working for me, I can always head for the golden 'B'. Mr. Biggs is the local fastfood chain as well as the all important classy date place to take university coeds. If you're broke, it's a souya date. If you have Naira, it's Mr. Biggs all the way, woo-hoo!

Then of course, there's other authentic local Nigerian eateries as well...

(and yeah, the food passed the Chinese restaurant criteria test- they had red chairs, other Chinese were actually eating there, and the bathroom floor was sticky. Steamed rice though was $4 a bowl!)

Gobarau Minaret

2007-07-09T09:58:00.000-07:00

So this past weekend, we headed to far northern town of Katsina, about 15 minutes from the Niger border. Katsina was a hot and dusty city, but not without some charm.

The photos are of the Gobarau Minaret, an stunning structure built over 500 years ago sometime during the reign of King Muhammadu Korau during 1348-1398.

The structure was constructed from clay baked by the sun. Stairs wind along the outside. The top of the minaret is only accessible from the inner passages.
At the very top, you can peek out an opening that once served as watch tower for invaders.

View of Katsina from the top

In the courtyard below, plenty of football players.

Kid peeking in on the baturi.

Where there is one, there's always two.

Just a fantastic minaret.

Market days

2007-07-05T08:24:00.000-07:00

Markets always seem to be one of the centers of activity in Nigeria. Electricity isn't the greatest so food doesn't keep. It's always interesting to see all the colorful things being sold at the "supermarket" in Zaria.

Usually, it's not too difficult getting food in Nigeria. Kids are always around selling things from the top of their heads.
Popcorn head

Peanut girls

And yes, that is raw meat on a wood table in the open with flies everywhere. Adds to the special seasoning I guess. Yep, grilled and charred is definitely the way to go before eating anything!

Dried spices and nuts and other foods everywhere

For some reason or another, there's always a plethora of tomato and potato stands alongside the road. I guess if you get the sudden urge to throw things at the truck who cut you off?

And of course, tropical fruit galore! Gotta love the 20 cent mangos.

Nigerian Traditional Dance?

2007-07-02T01:47:00.000-07:00

Ok, if you saw the above photos, what would you think? Someone getting a "massage" Nigerian streetstyle, right? Actually, we took a short day trip this past weekend to Kaduna, a neighboring town. Behind the National Museum, people gather in the late afternoon to have a big dance off to Hausa music. Apparently the traditional musician didn't show, so I'm not sure if this was the equivalent of Nigerian interpretive dance. It was a cross between WWE wrestling linked with Indian Bollywood themes (forbidden love). Highly entertaining.

The comedian in the group came out and dressed in drag. And wow, they can dance. Listen to the Hausa music in the clip below.

There were some incredible sculptures as well behind the museum.

The Nigerian Fashion Police

2007-06-26T04:12:00.000-07:00

Alright... I knew Nigeria and Africa in general was a more formal society which is why I dragged along something along the lines of 6 button up shirts and business casual shoes and pants. It's a big step up from the chacos and baseball cap I usually wear, but seriously what gives? I've been here for a little over a month and I've already been accosted twice by the Nigerian fashion police, and both times I've had my shirt tucked in!

The first time I can laugh it off as some random foreign country weirdo. My female colleague and I were walking along the street, when some woman started giving her a stern talking to about how she needed to go shopping for me and buy a long muslim robe to wear. And the lady wasn't even muslim herself. Personally, I think it would cause more trouble if I were to dress like I was muslim, but then go off and do non-muslim things like get a beer. Yeah whatever. I don't listen to the crazies in Berkeley, why should I start anyplace else in the world?

It's been a bit on the warmer side in Zaria, so I tried to go swimming at the pool. Apparently, the lifeguards felt that my American swimsuit was "obscene" and they wanted me to wear a Nigerian suit instead. I would post a photo of the Nigerian men splashing around in their swimsuits, but I'd be afraid of this blog getting flagged for obscenity or something. Let's just say that if I took along my 8th grade bright red Sam Brannan gym shorts (circa 1987) along with me, I wouldn't have any arguments with the lifeguards. How my typical American suit covering much more body surface area then the nuthuggers they like here could be more obscene is beyond me...

Signs like this are very prominent at the entrance of the University and hospital grounds. There's a strong community pressure to conform to decent standards. Apparently the guy on the left is "indecent" for having braided hair, which only the women here have. Good thing I took out those cornrows, it would have been a double-whammy for sure.

The other amusing fashion thing in Nigeria, is this trend for short ties. A lot of the male doctors wear these ties that are only half torso. If only I saved those clip-on ties from middle school... I'll get a photo and post it.

"Illiteracy, poverty, and ignorance"

2007-06-22T03:55:00.000-07:00

That was the response of one of the villagers who we went to interview for a household survey that I was sent to Nigeria to help with. We had asked him why he thought maternal mortality rates were so high in the area, and he couldn't have been more right (And yeah, talk about going a long way to get a lecture on the fundamental determinants of health. So much for my pricey graduate school education, hah!).

In Nigeria overall, unfortunately, about 100 out of 100,000 women who give birth end up dying. In the US, this rate is about 10. In the northern region, this number balloons to an absurd 1000. Reasons for this vary, but women have no rights, they end up getting married as young as 12 or 13, and most give birth in the village instead of a hospital facility. Family planning is considered by many to be a bad word. So what to do?

That's one of the aspects of the project that I like. There aren't any quick and easy fixes, and any solutions will have to be developed with the communities and the Nigerian medical students and researchers that are leading this project. But the villager was right, illiteracy, poverty, and ignorance all have to be addressed to make any progress.

The more serious side of Nigerian villages...

2007-06-11T08:35:00.000-07:00

While the sounds of children of laughing and playing are really common in the village, life isn't quite that simple or easy. Working in the fields all day and preparing meals for up to 2 dozen people is demanding work.

After taking bucket showers for the past week, I can definitely vouch for the the luxury of running water. Seems like there's always a neverending march with buckets and pots to the well for water.

In addition to water, I can't imagine having to cook by fire every single day. That's a lot of firewood to be gathered for every meal.

Religion plays a HUGE part in the lives of most Nigerians, not just those living in the villages. The following man and boy are memorizing the Koran outside the village mosque.

The plastic kettles are also common among muslim communities. After praying, one is expected to wash.

Some villages are Christian... Boy eating a mango with the New Testament.

I just happened to be in the right place at the right time for these shots.

Baby on back

One in the light, another in the shadows

Sound with photos

2007-06-07T09:08:00.000-07:00

So on this trip, I actually took a long a pocket digital voice recorder. I've been playing around with merging sound clips with photographs, and I tried to upload it to Youtube. Let me know if it works...

The girl on the left in photographs is named Asmanu, she sells sugar in Tsiligiri village, just 10 minutes outside the main town of Zaria. Unfortunately, I didn't get the names of the others.

Apparently, the girls are telling each other that I'm there to give them injections since the only visitors their village typically gets are the immunization people, hah! Not this summer. They definitely made me laugh though, glad they weren't camera shy.

The lighter side of Nigerian villages...

2007-06-04T09:10:00.000-07:00

This past week I've had the opportunity to go out to the field and join the medical students on their surveys of villagers. Of course I don't speak Hausa, so I'm not much use other than to provide entertainment to everyone and their second cousins in the village. I hope the children are teaching me the right greeting words, 'cause everyone seems to find it hillarious everytime I try to ask how their day is. At any rate, it did give me plenty of time to take photos!

Future mothers to be (more on this later)...

And like Bangladesh, there's no shortage of hams here! Yet again, feeling like the pied piper with my camera.

If I were an anthropologist, I'd probably study children's games. Everything that kids were playing were all similar to other places and what kids play in the US. I guess there's only so many things you can do outside. This looked a lot like jumping jacks to me.

In the heat of the afternoon sun, the men would come back after working in the village to hang out and take a nap.

The mango tree served as the informal village/town square and meeting/resting place.

No Nigerian scams here!

2007-05-29T04:50:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the lack of updates, it's been hard to find a decent internet connection here in Nigeria. I can personally guarantee that the Nigerian email scams CAN NOT be coming from here, because I've been online for an hour now, and I've only managed to send 3 messages! Scammers would be broke if they had to send them from here! Photos and updates coming soon...

Yosemite part II (springtime!)

2007-04-23T14:58:00.000-07:00

Enjoy more of the photos!

Vernal Falls along the Mist Trail and rainbow

Half Dome

View from the meadow

Mirror Lake (appropriately named!)

Yosemite!

2007-04-02T12:15:00.000-07:00

It's hard to visit Yosemite and not be inspired to take some photos. A map with the geocoded photographs can be found here. Enjoy the winter shots from Jan., spring ones are on the way...

View from Inspiration Point

Bridalveil Falls

Scenes along the Merced River in Yosemite Valley...

Puri fishermen scenes

2007-03-19T00:37:00.000-07:00

These are from one of the rare mornings where I actually woke up at sunrise to catch the fishermen before they set out to sea. Definitely picturesque scenes.

Going out...

Waiting for the catch...

Coming in...

Sorting the nets...

Some more shots of Radjasthan

2007-02-08T00:01:00.000-08:00

Additional shots from the western Indian state of Radjasthan.

There's something to be said about children flying kites from rooftops. You just don't see that type of low-tech toy in the US anymore.

This little girl's job was to beat away the cows who would try to take a snack from the produce her family was selling. I like how her grandfather is napping.

Jodhpur gateway to the market

Sunset among the desert dunes outside of Jalsaimer.

A musician inside the Jalsaimer fort. Everytime I see this photo, I can "hear" what he's playing, one of my favorite shots.

Calcutta/Kolcata redux

2007-01-29T14:54:00.001-08:00

More scenes from Calcutta (previous posts 1, 2), this time shot from the medium format camera.

Nope, not terrorist training for young kids, but a street game shooting balloons with a pellet gun.

As large of a city that Kolcata is, it's one place that I refused to take rickshaws around. I don't know of any other places in the world that still have humans pulling around other people, but I just wasn't comfortable with it.

Ice cream, delivered fresh from the streets of Calcutta