Scenes From the Betwa River in Orchha

One of the popular tourist activities is to catch sunset along the Betwa River in Orchha. It was probably one of my favorite places to photograph. Of course you get the requisite postcard shot at sunset with the chhatris reflecting off the water in the background...





But to me, the far more interesting shots were to be had by turning around and photographing people going back and forth across the bridge.

Carrying Firewood from the Forests



Posing with the Tourist(s)

Bus Driving By

A Queue of Feet


There were a number of Sadhus also enjoying the sunset. Some were in deep philosophical conversations...

Others followed tourists around waiting for their photo to be taken (for a small fee naturally).


I figured I'd oblige...


Out of all my photos in Orchha, I think I like these ones the best. Not really too sure why, but the soft glow at sunset and more importantly the warmth and friendliness of the people, give them a nice feel.
Down the Line

Watching Friends

Scenes from Orchha

Orchha is a tranquil town filled with 16th century temples which attract Hindu pilgrims. Because it's a bit off the beaten path and on the smaller side, it often gets overlooked, which is fine by me because that means a lot less harassment.

The square around the Ram Raja temple was filled with vendors, sadhus, and Hindu pilgrims everywhere.

Painting-

Painted

Selling Dye

Doll and Sadhu

Pilgrims Resting


There was a long queue for food handouts as well...
Food Handouts for the Needy



Shaggy motorcycle saddle covers seemed to be all the rage as well.



Pilgrims at the Ram Raja temple were kissing the back wall, apparently where the Shiva statue would have been placed.


Myself personally, I've learned to generally (especially in this country) not to put my mouth where other hands and mouths have been before, hah! I won't say what this dog was doing to the wall shortly before I took this photo (yes, it's the same one people were kissing)...


And of course this being India, cows just seem to make it a habit to insert themselves in so many photos. They just like the attention apparently.
All Natural Garbage Disposal

Terrorism and Acceptable Risks?

Usually I keep my blog light and fun because, well, that's what I enjoy taking photos of and telling stories about. Today just feels a bit different...

I lost a friend today in a terrorist bombing in India. Actually, to be technically correct, it was a week ago- I only just found out a few hours ago.
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/pune/Blast-rips-Punes-German-Bakery-9-dead-45-wounded/articleshow/5570692.cms

I met Nadia in Feb/March 2006 the first time I traveled to India. It was just one of those random, chance encounters with fellow travelers that you find yourself in while being abroad. We were both staying in the same guesthouse, and I just happened to start a conversation with her while she was on her way to a yoga class. We bonded by talking about how special of a place India is.


I only knew Nadia for 2 weeks, and I can't call her a close friend. We would exchange the occasional email over the years. But I knew her well enough though to say that she had a magical twinkling in her eyes, a beautiful spirit, and India in her soul as so many of us who travel/live here.

Thanks to fate, she just happened to be at a German Bakery when someone left a bomb in a backpack under a table. But it could have been anyplace else in India- it could have just as easily occurred here in New Delhi at any of the locations that I frequent with my friends, expat and Indians alike.

Shortly before the Pune bombing that killed Nadia, my Inbox had several emails from the American consulate with vague warnings about a possible terrorist attack and with ambiguous advice about to be vigilant of my surroundings. While I appreciate the concern and the warnings, I really wonder if the emails truly change the behavior of those of us who live and travel around India.

To me, the risks were already known a long time ago. Granted, the majority of us foreigners here live a charmed existence. We have the freedom and means to travel, and experience all that riches that India has to offer that most people here do not have. While events like the Pune bombing makes living here in Never-Neverland more "real" to the ugliness in the world, is it really going to change the way I will live my life here or anywhere else? I doubt it.

To me, asking myself how "risky" any given part of India is to a terrorist attack is about on par with asking myself how risky is it to travel across town on a rickety autorickshaw or how risky is it to eat street food or how risky is it make conversation with a stranger (or how risky is it to get locked in a fort at night while taking photos for that matter). I'm not reckless with my life by any means, but risk is absolutely relative- I personally think that living on the Berkeley/Oakland border in the US with all the shootings and drivebys a bit more "risky" to be honest.

While traveling and living abroad has some inherent risks to be sure, the issue truly isn't about what are and what aren't acceptable risks for many of us (and Nadia was one for sure). It is more about what is unacceptable- living afraid and denying yourself the opportunity to experience all that India, and life for that matter, has to offer.

While I'm incredibly sad that Nadia is gone, I also know that she was doing what she loved- exploring, growing, and living her life the way she wanted to. In the end, isn't that important? She will be missed.


Tapping into the magic of India
unexpectedly there I am always new
and coming going , arriving,
departing , resting , whatever rolls
under the feet of now
--- Nadia (from her Facebook page)

Things I like/dislike about New Delhi

So with the sweet there's the bitter. After living in New Delhi, you experience the extreme duality to India- sometimes at the same time. Kinda like how every rose has it's thorn... just like every night has it's dawn... just like every cowboy sings his sad, sad song... Hah! Alright, no more quoting power ballads from the late 80's.

1a. I like- Indian weddings
How can you not like celebrations where they hire a marching band, the groom comes in on a horse, and everyone is dancing. Not to mention the fantastic food and the beautiful lights!

The groom arrives by horse-

People dancing- http://www.flickr.com/photos/tlo/4337798384/



My apartment when our landlord's granddaughter got married-




1b. I don't like- Lost Indian Wedding Marching Bands
The dirt patch area behind my apt serves as site for weddings. The entrance can be hard to find. During the night, it's nearly impossible. So I can always tell the wedding marching band gets lost because they stop, circle around my house a few times, and then stop again. It's charming the first couple of times. And it sucks at midnite on a weeknight the umpteenth time during wedding season.



2a. I like- Indian signs

So I guess a man can be identified by his wearing shorts and arms akimbo and a female with pigtails and skirt (check out those cankles* by the way!!!)?

*cankle=calf+ankle


"Keep smiling, it only increases your face value."


2b. I don't like- Indian bureaucratic paperwork
I'm not going to say too much about this since I don't want to get kicked out of country. So I'll just post a photo, and those of you who live here more longterm will cringe and know exactly what I'm talking about.



Ok, I lied, I can't resist one smartass comment. As my friend who's leaving the country (and not me) and went to the registration office for 2 weeks straight summed it up best by saying "He (the bureaucratic paper-pusher) probably lives at home with his mum and still wets his bed." I guess it's only fair since I know we put people traveling to the US through even more hassle!

3a. I like- Kids playing on the street
Everywhere you look, kids are running around with their friends, playing cricket, and getting into all sorts of adventures- you know, just being kids. It's the way it used to be in the US which is tragic. Life was good back then.


3b. I don't like- Indian kids selling stuff on the streets
At every stoplight, packs of kids are trying to sell you things ranging from out of date magazines, books, balloons (kinda like these in Mumbai http://lucidtravels.blogspot.com/2006/02/chasing-balloon.html), you name it. Not to mention some are trying to do cartwheels in rush hour traffic.




4a. I like- Indian street food
There really isn't anything better. It tastes so good!

4b. I don't like- Later that night/the next morning
Two words- Delhi Belly. Enough said.

Bright Lights, Big City

Some infrared shots from my new digital camera.

Washington DC-



New York-