Caps for sale in Kermi market. Kermi market was this huge sprawling market in the old part of Kano city that had a little bit of everything ranging from pots to leather goods to Islamic bookstores. It was so large, I had to hire a "guide" to lead me around. Outside the national museum Outside the Emir of Kano's palace. Good friends.
I spent a couple of nights in Shika Dam village. It's actually one of the study sites, but to be honest, everyone was so curious about me that I was the one being studied. As always, people were warm and friendly and incredibly kind. It seems to always be the case that the people with the least are the most generous...
As always, kids love to pose for the camera, and I'm more than happy to oblige. They were checking for their reflections in the lenses. When one starts posing, so do the others...
And as one would expect, you have to figure out ways to entertain yourself in the villages. Canoe ride around the water
Listening to tunes on the radio seems to cut across cultural barriers at a young age.
Before I left for Nigeria, I happened to stumble across a book of folk tales from northern Nigeria. I figured in the story time for the village kids would be fantastic. Unfortunately, I don't speak Hausa, and the guy I roped into interpreting for me didn't know the translation for hippo. Oh well. They liked the pictures in the book though, it's not every day that you get to see photos and stories of your culture in the rural villages.
The old tire rolling game is always fun.
And yes, that's box of cornflakes cut to be a hat. Simple joys.
The people watching at the market is always fantastic! Market boy Man sleeping These boys are from right outside the gates. Perfumes, potions, and other exotic vials for sale. Yep, they're what you think they are. Could be the reason why Nigeria is the most populous country in Nigeria. And in the Christian parts, more Jesus signs.
The Emir's Palace lies inside the ancient city of Zaria. Thousands of Nigerians still live and work within the walls.
Entrances are beautifully decorated.
Although they definitely don't call it the ancient city because everything is new and modern. It only recently had gotten a paved road.
Girls doing henna. The obligatory bike shot. I can't help but find these bikes and the settings in which they are parked fascinating.
Lori (my colleague out here in Nigeria) and I actually visited these cloth sellers back in May. I recently went back and they remembered my name and asked how Lori was doing. Since then, several other batures ("white" people or foreigners) have passed them in the marketplace and they all asked them how we were doing. Definitely a village atmosphere in the old city, everyone knows everyone. The cloth sellers were definitely a fascinating bunch to talk with. Well educated and well informed on world affairs. And yes, they care much for Bush either, hah!
So this past Friday, I went to prayers at the Emir's Palace. Usually the place is wide open with plenty of space.
Front of the palace
However, on Friday, the place is jammed with upwards of 30,000 people all praying. On Friday, all the men from the surrounding villages come to pray and pay their respects to the Emir. It was one of the more remarkable sites that I've seen before. Everyone was dressed in their finest robes and turbans. When the prayers began, it was just a sea of colors bowing and praying in unison. I don't think I've ever witnessed so many people be so silent and respectful before, the only thing that remotely comes close is the unveiling of the HIV/AIDS quilt in its entirety in Washington DC. I wanted to take photos, but it would have been extremely disrespectful.
After the prayers, the Emir of Zaria walks from the mosque to his palace flanked by his loyal subjects, musicians, and guards. It was chaos and fascinating at the same time. The Emir is the one under the parasol.
My friend recognized one of his friends who works in the Palace's public relations department. He grabbed me, and I was swept inside the palace to witness a titling ceremony. The Emir granted a loyal subject a title for all of his good deeds (aka donating $$$). As a shouter sings his praises, musicians are playing. Youtube video coming soon...
I even was taken in front of the Emir. I wasn't too sure what to do so I ended up doing what everyone else does, bow (when in Rome...). Good thing I didn't go up and try to shake his hand, there were plenty of big bodyguards willing to give anyone who gets too close a stick/gun massage.
After Friday prayers, the grounds turn into 30,000 strong marketplace where everything from clothing to ice cream to snake oil is being sold. Apparently ice cream sellers in Nigeria play music also. And yes, kids ran after his cart. Selling snake oil. Lots of street kids listening to someone hawking traditional medicine. Beggar
Just a fantastic experience that reminds me that I'm still a visitor in a foreign culture.
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